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greg

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#121 [url]

Jan 31 12 9:25 PM

Dave,

I'm still here! been working second shift...

Greg

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#122 [url]

Feb 12 12 7:52 AM

Dave,

Still not much progress:( hurricane force winds yesterday and this morning 25 degrees...ugh! I did spend some time looking thru some boxes of parts came with the Citation...Looks like I might have the makings of a decent roller furling setup. Here's a pic of what I found, does it look like most or all of the parts are there?

Greg 



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#123 [url]

Feb 12 12 7:37 PM

Greg,

It looks similar to the Hood furler I have. You should have, or need, internal bearings that attach each section together. the bearings receive the rivets the hold the sections together and act to contain the forestay inside the extrusions. I've had my Hood furler for many years and I find it completely trustworthy.

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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#124 [url]

Feb 13 12 6:53 PM

Thanks Dave,

Looks like I'm missing some parts then! bearings and such....any chance you might have a pic of your setup? I'll check to see if HOOD's website might have a parts breakdown...

Greg

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#125 [url]

Feb 16 12 6:31 PM

Greg,

This page might help you: http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/09/hood-seafurl-800-bearing-replacement.html

It shows a breakdown of the lower unit which yours seems to be intact. I don't really have a way of photographing the connecting bearings. The are black looking things shaped to the inside of the extrusion sections..the sections fit on to them, butt together and the two sections are held onto the bearing with a rivet for each end. If you call Hood in Tampa--they have always had very good customer service--I'm sure they can sell you the needed parts. One thing: layout everything butted together and make sure you have all the extrusions you need.

Good luck,

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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#126 [url]

Feb 16 12 6:39 PM

Greg,

Here is the furl extrusion parts breakdown in case you haven't found it: http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/abd7b90a2db9f5c0852567b300163588/7b9ae4f05fafc767852568430065ceb1?OpenDocument

and the part number reference page: http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/a0e2253b23a1a536852567ae003c83a9/e7ce00e1ab4c3952852567b3001e6cae?OpenDocument&Start=1&Count=200&Expand=16

both are for the SL800 which is mine..yours might bbe a slightly larger unit.

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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greg

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#127 [url]

Feb 18 12 1:22 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the info, I was looking on the Hood website....no parts breakdown there, so your info was just what I needed! now I have a good idea...Well, raining again so not much happening here:/, just studying your website and your work...nice..caprails must be fantastic....

Greg

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#128 [url]

Feb 18 12 2:02 PM

Dave,
 
I'm curoius...since I'm not an expert sailor...would it be a good idea to leave the headstay alone and put it back like is was without the furler...
 
Greg

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#130 [url]

Feb 19 12 6:36 PM



Greg,

I've had the Bristol rigged with both kinds of headsails. Each has its advantages: a hanked on jib will point slightly higher than a fulrer jib; however, it didn't seem to make any difference with the Bristol. A furled headsail creates a lot more windage than a bare forestay--something that might affect the boat at anchor. The furler allows some level of reefing which a hanked on headsail usually doesn't--you can have reef points added to a headsail but it's a pain in the ass to reef. A good furling system like the Hood makes handling the headsail easy as pie. But the more important thing to keep in mind is to get comfortable going forward to the fordeck, whether you have a furler or not. Some people become fearful of getting out of cockpit when the conditions get stinky, and that reluctance will invariably get them into trouble. It's better to get comfortable going to the mast and the foredeck when you need to, regardless of the type of headsail you have.

On the subject of toggling, I believe all the stays and shrouds should be toggled at both ends.

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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#131 [url]

Feb 19 12 7:26 PM

Dave,

Yes, I think I better get the rest of the parts, being able to manage the headsail easily in nasty weather is all I needed to hear...yes I agree you have to feel ok about moving around on the deck if necessary. It was another funky day here so I sorted thru more stuff that came with the Citation, mostly junk...

Greg

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#133 [url]

Mar 10 12 7:19 PM

However...the bearing is just a little larger than the opening in the rudder..."which could have been changed" remember it had the stainless get-up...anyway what I'd like to do is enlarge the opening so that the new correct assembly will fit properly. Dave, what's your thoughts, do you think it will be ok to do that? if I make a bearing that will fit in the opening now the strap will only be 1-1/2 tall which I wonder will be strong enough..



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#134 [url]

Mar 11 12 4:56 PM

Dave,
More of the mock up...I didn't do anything to the rudder...wanted to wait to see what you had to say. I was interested to see what a smaller bearing would look like without changing the rudder, in this case the strap would only be 1-1/2 tall...."I wonder if that would be strong enough?" I marked a red line where the opening would have to be enlarged to.


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#136 [url]

Mar 11 12 5:10 PM

Here's a couple three of shots of the gap that has to be filled with mush...remember when I asked you what mush was! what do you think about that gap .....1-1/4 from the hull to the bearing..so if the gap is no big deal would it be better to use west or stick with the mush?? according to the Irwin drawings mush glues the everything up...You'll have to look back to see the irwin drawing stuff....





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#137 [url]

Mar 11 12 5:23 PM

When you have time let me know what you think about all this...it's a bunch I know! Oh almost forgot to say I used the larger bearing in the pics
 
Greg

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#138 [url]

Mar 11 12 8:41 PM

Hi Greg,

My concern about using the 2" bushing is that in cutting the rudder to get it to fit, you may, and I say may weaken the opening where the shaft comes thru the rudder to allow attaching the bushings. I don't know how thick the glass is there--if it is relatively thin, cutting back the rudder to fit the bushing may open up a bigger can of worms. I think the 1.5" bushings and straps are plenty large. If you are concerned with the strength of the straps, you can go with thicker stainless.

Good luck,

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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#139 [url]

Mar 26 12 7:21 PM

Dave,

     Sorry for the delay, you were right.... I made contact with Gene Gammons at Irwinyachts and he said pretty much the same thing..."don't alter the rudder" he said the 2" was most likely for the larger 34' plus boats and that 1-1/2 would be fine. He says that if I cast a new split bearing per the drawings that it will last several years. So I've been thinking about how I would procede with that...I also like the Idea of a Stainless bearing with UHMW bearing inserts that can be replaced when needed. I've already ordered/received the Oillite bronze sleeve bearing for the split bearing made the original way by (casting) but should have ordered 2 because there's no way to split the sleeve bearing without loosing the 1-1/4 shaft dia. Anyway I'm working on building a mold from the wooden bearing I built, then I hope to cast a bearing using cloth/mat and west. I have a drawing of the stainless idea, will you take a look and let me know what you thoughts are.

Greg

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