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fullkeel

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Sep 26 10 4:52 PM

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Hi David,  I am thinking about re-coring the deck on my B29.  If i am going to do any piece of it i figured i would do all of it.  do you know if there is coring in the for deck and or dog/house?

Thanks.  Chase

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#1 [url]

Sep 27 10 3:16 AM

Hi Chase,

Yes the decks are cored out to about 1-1/2" of the toerail. The cabin top is cored, as is the cockpit sole. All the coring is end grin balsa. 

Are you sure you have rot or delamination that extensively in the core?

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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fullkeel

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#2 [url]

Sep 27 10 8:53 AM

Hi Dave,

 

Here is what I know for sure:

  • When I drilled out the wholes for the new stanchions a significant amount of water came out, this included the core material being sopping wet.
  • I can grab the newly mounted stanchions, which use large backing plates, and see the deck flex when I wiggle them.
  • When it rains water fills the cabinets, cupboard on both the port and starboard side, so I am freaked out rot is prolific both in the core and throughout the cabin. 

I was thinking I would remove the toe rail and all the mechanical fasters and then glass tape the whole hull-to-deck joint with 3 layers of biax tape.

Then I was thinking I would cut the deck into panels, remover the core and replace with foam coring, re-glue the panels back down fair with structural filling and lay one whole new layer of glass over the whole deck extending down the top side 4 inches.

My dream is to compete in the single handed transpac and I want to be seriously confident in the boat.


Thanks.  Chase

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#3 [url]

Sep 27 10 12:55 PM

Chase,

I see what you mean. Sounds like the side decks at the stanchions at least. the outboard stanchion mounting holes probably do not penetrate the core; only the inboard holes do. I would drill some test holes with a 1/4" thru the top layer of glass and the core to see what the drill brings up, to see what the pattern of rot is. I would agree with your idea for glassing over the hull to deck joint. However I would recore with end grain balsa, not foam. I think the balsa makes a stronger bond to the epoxy and glass. 
I would also think the ports are suspect for leaks. Have you rebedded them?

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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#5 [url]

Sep 27 10 3:53 PM

Yes you should. Bristol's use end grain balsa, and that material does not wick moisture, so saturated areas of the deck will stay isolated and if you do some sample bores, you will find clean dry balsa around the parameter of the leaking area.For instance, I found a few isolated areas of dry rot recently in the cockpit sole, where the upper rudder shaft bearing shoe bolts through the sole. But the rot extended out only about 1/2 inch from the bolt holes.

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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reuben

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#6 [url]

Oct 1 10 6:00 AM

David,

On the issue of core rot, I have a number of smallish spongy spots here and there. I was planning to do the technique outlined in the WEST manual of drilling a series of small holes in the outer laminate and injecting thickened west until it squeezes out. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Reuben

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67bristol29

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#8 [url]

Oct 1 10 9:26 AM

Hi guy's
I have just recently removed the toerails from both sides of my bristol29, and sealed the hull deck joint. I ground off all the gellcoat and thourghly cleaned out all the mastic from the gap with acetone, I thickened the epoxy with west 404 and filled the deck joint gap, screw holes, and stachion location test holes with good results, I covered this with two layers of 10 oz fiberglass tape 4 in wide. I will try to attach some pics, It looks messy and was, but it sanded off the deck easily. I plan to paint the deck anyway. I will not be using toerails but plan to install a bullwark 1/2 in off the deck 3 inches high atached to the stanchions with stainless brackets...not sure how to attach pic,s

67 Bristol 29 # 11 " Abigale"

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67bristol29

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#11 [url]

Oct 1 10 6:21 PM

Hi all
got he pic thing to work, thanks david.

 the first pic is the holes i cut after removing a couple of cleats on the coach roof, the core was completely rotted to powder, thankfully it does not spread very far though, I will probably cut out a panel there and use plywood to replace the rotted balsa .

pic two after filling  with thickened epoxy, you can also see the deck joint gap filled in as well, a stanchion was located here, the deck was flexing, but the balsa was ok there was no backing behind the stanchion base.

pic three, is the old toe rail coming off

pic four , the gel coat sanded off

five , another stanchion location before filling

67 Bristol 29 # 11 " Abigale"

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67bristol29

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#12 [url]

Oct 1 10 6:56 PM

I have glassed the deck joint but I don't have any pictures yet , I will post some when I return from my next trip to the boat,

67 Bristol 29 # 11 " Abigale"

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#13 [url]

Oct 3 10 6:01 AM

You are eliminating the single biggest issue with Bristols. The hull to deck joint was used in virtually all of their boats, even the the 50+ feet custom yachts the yard built in the early 90's. I went aboard a Bristol 54 at the Annapolis boat show in 1992 and the salesman proudly showed me a cross section of the hull to deck joint that was displayed on the saloon table. Same exact flange, same sheet metal screws, same size toerail (and I'm sure the same leaks).

You're doing very nice work. Good luck with it!

David

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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reuben

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#14 [url]

Oct 4 10 4:33 AM



67bristol29
I went through a similar procedure. I ran out of steam when I reached the jib track, but forward to the bow has been done almost exactly the same way.(I have to be careful how far I dig, because of the difficulty in obtaining materials I have here in the out-islands) I didn't grind back the gel coat quite as far inboard as you did, and I only glassed over the thickened WEST with one layer of chop strand. You are doing a very thorough and nice job. Boy, cleaning out that green gooey mastic was a job! 

I am also painting the deck (one-part polyurethanes)  because the condition was so poor. You can see all the fairing that I had to do. I am also replacing the toe rail with Brazilian iron wood because a construction buddy had some leftovers from a job--availability of materials is my #1 issue.

Reuben


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reuben

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#16 [url]

Oct 4 10 5:54 AM

David,

The anchor platform was something that the previous owner had constructed. It will serve well for two substantial anchors. I like to have good ground tackle arrangements because our boats here are never in a slip. they are always at anchor or on a mooring. The platform was made of planks of soft wood. The wood was sound but not worthy of finishing bright. so I saturated with west and faired with 404 filler to make it seem sort of like a molded bow pulpit. The previous fore-stay was attached to a piece of stainless hardware that was bolted to this pulpit--it had failed. I installed a chainplate-like tang that through-bolts to the stem and protrudes through the anchor platform. I don't know what the purpose of the stainless bracket with holes and the rod are all about on the very tip of the thing. any Idea?

Reuben  


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#17 [url]

Oct 4 10 6:05 PM

I can't figure what the PO was doing with that bracket between the rollers. It's a nice looking anchor platform and you and your class finished it out very nicely.

David

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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reuben

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#18 [url]

Oct 5 10 5:14 AM

Thank you. Yes I am at a loss as to the purpose of the bracket as well. I have been scratching my head for some time trying to figure out what use I can make of it.

Reuben

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#19 [url]

Oct 5 10 5:25 AM

It would be convenient to fly an asymmetrical spinnaker off of. It almost looks like at some point it was set up to use as an attachment point for twin forestays.

David

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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reuben

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#20 [url]

Oct 6 10 2:14 PM

David, 

The mast does have a track for a spinnaker or whisker pole. I have never sailed with a spinnaker before so I am unfamiliar with the hardware involved.

Reuben

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