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pughgl

Able Bodied Seaman

Posts: 26

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Apr 15 10 12:31 PM

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Hello David.

If you remember I am in the process of installing an Atomic 4 back in my Bristol 29.  I got your reply about installing a muffler and now am wondering if I should do anything to the prop shaft packing etc before I install the engine. I am sure that it would be a lot easier now than later although I don't want to take on  a complete restoration of the boat. The gas tank is also a concern as I have easy access to it now  but won't after I install the engine. I really want to get done what I need to to get it in the water.

If I haven't already said I really appreciate all of your advice.

Thanks
Glenn


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#1 [url]

Apr 15 10 1:33 PM


Glenn,

This is one area that can sink your boat so I would definitely pull the cutlass bearing out and replace it, pull the shaft and remove the stuffing box. You should replace the stuffing box hose, and the hose clamps and repack it:
http://www.gfopacking.com/?gclid=CNDhnu3DiaECFd1n5QodrVJ_Mw

Doing this will also allow you to inspect the prop shaft and look for excess wear and dezinafication (if the bronze looks pink in some areas it will need to be replaced).

The shaft is 7/8". The cutlass bearing is locked into the stern tube with one or two set screws on either side of the stern tube--ususally covered in layers of bottom paint and sometimes covered with caulking. If you dig around with the tip of a knife you should locate them. Once you remove the two set screws, take a short piece of wooden dowel that will just slip into the stern tube from inside the boat (but a larger diameter than the cutlass bearing) and tap the cutlass bearing out. It should come out fairly easily.

The stuffing box hose is an extra tough variety, not just marine exhaust hose. Be sure to double clamp the hose on both ends with new AWAB 316 stainless hose clamps. Doing this work will mean you will sleep much better on the boat and not have to worry about any of these parts for years to come.

Regarding the gas tank. It is Monel so there should be no problems with it; however you should take this opportunity to ensure that

  • it is firmly attached to the cradle it rests in,
  • the cradle is still firmly glassed to the hull,
  • the fill hose is in good condition, hose clamps in good condition and that it is firmly clamped to the cockpit fill fitting (the top of the tank is very difficult to get at when the engine is in place).
  • the vent hose is properly attached and not broken or leaking.

Finally, since you are working on stuffing boxes, don't forget that your rudder uses a stuffing box as well (sorry to add to your work list).



Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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pughgl

Able Bodied Seaman

Posts: 26

#2 [url]

Apr 24 10 10:52 AM

Hi David.
I have removed the shaft and stuffer box but have no idea where the set screws would be for the cutless bearing. Would they be stainless? I was thinking magnet. You wouldn't have a measurement of how far they are from the end. I hate to just start digging.
The shaft does show signs of wear but only about .005" at the cutless bearing and the stufferbox. Still looks silver
The packing was installed as one continuous piece. It that the best way or should you cut separate rings for each layer?

Regarding the rudder, does it need to be redone. It doesn't leak and turns easily. I take it replacing the hose on the rudder is a big undertaking or can you slide it all down the shaft from the top?

Thanks
Glenn 


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#3 [url]

Apr 24 10 6:04 PM

Glenn,

The set screws are probably an inch in from the outer edge of the cutlass bearing.Use the point of a knife to probe around in that area. Normally they are covered with caulking. If you don't find them, I would take a sander with some 40 grit sandpaper and sand on each side of the cutlass bearing in that area. You should see the brass color of the set screws show thru. The deadwood there is solid fiberglass so it's no worry to be sanding there. The setscrews are brass hex head screws that require an allen wrench.

The packing for the stuffing box should be rings cut on a diagonal, the cuts positioned 180 degrees from each other. I believe if memory serves that you need the 1/4" size.

The rudder. Regardless of it leaking or not, I would be more concerned with the condition of the rubber hose and the hose clamps. If I were doing it I would take the opportunity to drop the rudder and replace everything so it is all new and seaworthy. Assuming that the pintel at the bottom of the rudder is in good condition, you only need to lift the rudder off the pintel and drop it down enough so you can slip a new house over the top of the rudder post, like you say.

Good luck,

David

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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pughgl

Able Bodied Seaman

Posts: 26

#4 [url]

Apr 26 10 10:18 AM

Hi David.
I dug for the set screws but didn't see anything. Is there two?
How long are they?
Do they go into a groove in the bearing or do they just press against the bearing. Was wondering if I could tap out the bearing to see where the are then remove them before I replace it.


Thanks
Glenn

Oh,and could I just inspect the rudder "hose" . I am not sure it I have room to drop it down because of the craddle.

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#6 [url]

Apr 27 10 4:58 AM


Also, if you simply cannot find the set screws, you can cut the bearing at the tip and bottom from the inside, carefully with a sawsall--cut thru the rubber and the brass sleeve, but not into the stern tube. Then remove the two halves. After the bearing is you you will see the set screws.


Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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pughgl

Able Bodied Seaman

Posts: 26

#8 [url]

Apr 27 10 5:26 PM

Thanks David. I will give her a go tomorrow

Thanks again
Glenn

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