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greg

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Oct 30 09 6:39 PM

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Dave,

Is there anything wrong with buying some stainless stock from McMaster Carr and fab some new chainplates from that? I was curious if there might be something special about the strength etc.

Greg

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Nov 1 09 10:36 AM

Greg,

I had a bad experience buying stainless from McMaster and would not recommend them. They sent me ferrous metal instead; I sent it back and told them it was not stainless, they apologized and sent me MORE of the same ferrous metal.
Instead, I would suggest buying Stainless 316L from Online Metals:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?step=2&id=27

Dave

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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greg

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Nov 1 09 7:15 PM

Dave,
 
     Thanks for the info and the link, Did you fab your plates too? I think I remember reading a piece you wrote about your plates but it was about spraying a protective coating of some kind on them....I'll look through the site to see if I can find it again..anyway there doesn't appear to be anything special about mine, there just a straight bar with the holes punched in them. I think I'm going to consider beefing them up by going a little thicker...Hey on another note should I stay away from Mcmaster's stainless tubing too? I'm working on some stanchions too.....Been sanding all day it was beautiful here, I hope the weather will hold so I can get the Barrier coat on before it gets cold.
 
Thank again
Greg

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Nov 2 09 7:39 AM

Greg,

I went with thicker chainplates as well. for all but the back stay I bought new chain plates from Schaefer, a solid 1/4" thick. Even though the Schaefer chain plates are 304 stainless, I think the will be protected enough that it will not be an issue. For the back stay I needed a longer chain plate becuase I added 3 inches to the taffrail as a stern bulwark so I bought 1/4" thick 316 stainless from Onlinemetals.com.  I'm going to have Embree Welding (727-321-8771) in St Pete do the work on the chain plate. I will post a photo when I get it back from them.

I've never been disappointed by anything I have ordered from McMaster other than the mixup on stainless so I would recommend buying tubing from onlinemetals instead. If you are redoing your stanchions, you might consider Garhauer. They do beautiful work and are very reasonable (http://garhauermarine.com/catalog.cfm)


Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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greg

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Nov 3 09 9:11 PM

Dave,

     Can I bug you about something else...The thru-hulls....you know I'm just about done sanding the bottom, except around the thru-hulls and and boat stands. I'm going to remove all the thru-hulls and sand the area, but should I install the new ones before applying the barrier coat or can I leave them out and apply the barrier coat then install the thu-hulls and then primocon over the barrier coat and thru-hulls. What would you do.

Greg 

Greg

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Nov 4 09 12:07 PM

If you are replacing them, I would go ahead and remove them prior to sanding those areas, then do all the finish work and barrier coating, then install the new thru-hulls and then do the primer. I would not put the Primocon on the thru-hulls IF they rae bronze--reason being I think the Primocon has metal flake in it, probably aluminum, but something and i would be concerned with a galvanic reaction to the bronze. Instead I would sand into the bronze unthickened epoxy tinted white--several applications. Then protect the epoxy from UV until you apply bottom paint with some tape. The epoxy with protect the bronze from reacting with salt water and reacting with the copper in the bottom paint.

It the thru-hulls are marelon, you can go ahead and paint them with the primer along with everything else.

Dave


Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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greg

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Nov 4 09 7:35 PM

Dave,

Ok got it. I'll take them all off and barrier coat. I haven't really decided on what type thru-hulls to go back with, I think you  swapped over to marelon right, I've got a bunch of bronze/brass junk that someone rigged up "it's as good as gone!" Are you happy with how yours have held up? If the weather is nice this weekend I hope to get all the thru-hulls, and radio grounding plate off and complete the sanding. Then it's on to the small repairs on the nicks and gouges, then Barrier coat...

Greg  

Greg

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Nov 5 09 7:10 AM

Greg,

I am extremely happy with the Forespar Marelon thru-hulls. The are not affected by stray current corrosion from miswired marinas; they are not affected by galvanic corrosion, they are inert, you can thread a bronze seacock onto them or a Marelon seacock, and they are extremely strong. I cut one off with a brand new japanese saw and it took a long time to cut thru it. I plan to add one new thru-hull to the boat for the head outlet and it will be Marelon like the rest. The thru-hulls give me peace of mind and no worries mate!

Dave


Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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Nov 9 09 7:01 PM

Hey Dave,

Didn't get much sanding done this weekend......I ended up spending most of the time getting all the thru-hulls and such out. I still have the grounding plate to remove, it going to be the toughest of the bunch! 5200 is something else! I took a pic so you could see what I took out, hey every valve was seized up. Oh and the two 1/2 inch thru-hulls had regular ball valves screwed on them with only a couple of threaded holding them together. Hey meant to ask did you go marelon all the way or marelon thru-hull with bronze secock?

Greg




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Dec 8 09 8:23 PM

More about my backstay chainplate. I shipped the bar stock I bought at onlinemetals.com over to Embree Welding in St. Pete. They have done all the stainless work on my boat and I highly recommend them. The resulting chainplate is shown below to the left of the old, original chainplate.

Restoring a Bristol 29 in my backyard. www.bristol29.com

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